Thursday, 11 June 2009

RCA and Graduate Fashion Week Trend Report: Armless Fashion...more straight jackets, capes and extreme batwings

A quick reax photo trend report from Graduate Fashion shows at GFW and today's RCA.



Above: Jasper Sinchai Chadrapajong (RCA); Below: Johanne Anderson (RCA)





Above: April Smith (Nottingham Trent University); Below: Stacey Deakin (Nottingham Trent University)





Above: Yi Le Huang (Kingston University); Below: Ashley Farrall (Manchester Metropolitan School of Art)






Kate Williams (Ravensbourne); Below: Dulcie Dryden (Northumbria University)



On the slate...

More fashion trend reports from GFW and Royal College of Art MA Fashion Graduation Shows

RCA and Graduate Fashion Week Trend Report: Extreme Shoulders, feathers and fur

A quick reax photo trend report from Graduate Fashion shows at GFW and today's RCA.



Above: Holly Russell (Manchester Metropolitan University/Manchester School of Art)
Below: Jason Mui (Nottingham Trent University School of Art and design)




Above: Bronwen Marshall (RCA)
Below: Kim Choong-Wilkins (RCA)





Above: Luis Lopez-Smith (RCA); Below: Rachel Lucy Wakefield (University of Salford)





Above: David Fraser (RCA); Below: Yi Le Huang (Kingston University)






Above: Johanne Anderson (RCA); Below: Soifra Murphy (RCA)




On the slate...

More fashion trend reports from GFW and Royal College of Art MA Fashion Graduation Shows

Wednesday, 10 June 2009

Final 4s Part 2: Short clips from the last few collections at some of the Graduate Fashion Week Shows

Ravensbourne Graduate Fashion Show Final 4



Featuring: Rebecca Cluett, Marie Molterer (neoprene structures), Amanda Ng (black silk layered evening wear), Fah Chakshuvej (grey menswear) and Hannah Taylor (colourful unisex knits)


Somerset College Graduate Fashion Show Final 3



Featuring: Victoria Griffiths (miner influenced synthetics), Kimberley Startup (toddlers toys), Tara Farbahi (bright architectural silks)

Final 4s Part 1: Short clips from the last 4 collections at some of the Graduate Fashion Week Shows

Manchester Metropolitan University Graduate Fashion Show Final 4



Featuring Daniel Pollitt (gathered parachute silk womenswear), Faraz Hussain (menswear), Catherine Duncan (knitwear), Holly Russell (flowing silk and feather work)



University of Central Lancashire Graduate Fashion Show Final 4



Featuring: Liam Wilfred James Catterall (suit wools overlayed with transparent dip-dyed silks), Linda Jan Wiliams (silver and black), Jennifer Worthington (menswear with bondage elements) and Dao Minh Nguyen (ladies wool tailoring)

'I'm not crazy, I just like wearing straight-jackets' MAW at Graduate Fashion Week 2009. Trend forecast: Back-to-front tops and rear buttoning



Over-length knitwear from Catherine Duncan (Manchester Metropolitan University School of Art) is a perfect example of the back-to-front knitwear trend.





Salford student Rebecca Cottrell's hooded men's coat is open back and front.



Below: Mehmet Ali's mature collection was a highlight of the Ravensbourne show. It offered a cohesive aesthetic lacking in many graduates and the cuts were interesting and fresh while having commercial appeal. Note the over-length rear buttoned cardy.



Below: Off the runway: Buenos Aires based model Naomi shows off her transformable back-to-front cardy by her co-patriot designer Jessica Trosman .



On the slate...

More trend predictions from cool kids at Graduate Fashion Week, the Royal College of Art Fashion Show and the streets of London

Tuesday, 9 June 2009

Man About World at Graduate Fashion Week 2009. Trendspotting: Gimp masks and Balaclavas from the Club to the Catwalk



Above: University of Salford student Gemma Clements head-to-toe Liberty prints left me breathless. I loved the S'n'M gimp aesthetic contrasted with the feminine floral and tailoring references and think it woild look great in other prints too.

Below: Hannah Taylor closed Ravensbourne's show with whoops of joy from all sides of the audience. Her playful, WL&T referenced knitwear combined the balaclava trend with another common theme: extra long sweaters and over-sizing.







Above: Sally Ellis (Salford) created more juxtapositions of eroticism with the traditional in her use of lace but I was really excited by the use of headgear with Islamic styled scarves and contrasting lace masks.

Below: Nottingham Trent University graduate Sophia Bentley Tongue grabs her entirely black collection by the balls and gives it the Soho gimp effect


Below: The look's already in the clubs...I snapped Ferrel wearing this intricate lace at the Welcome to the Downlow fundraiser after party at The Joiners Arms two weeks ago...



On the slate...

More trend forecasting from the ramp and the street

Sunday, 17 May 2009

Dressing for the occasion? Protest Fashion



Until my early 20s I was still pretty caught up with the presumption that sartorial choices should be governed by the occasion. At Uni I'd get dressed for lectures in the morning, change outfits for bumming around college in the afternoon and then make an effort for going out in the evening. All this changed when I befriended a girl from New York who generally maintained a rule of one outfit per day and usually erred on the side of the evening's dressy outfit than any other. From her, I learnt that if I could loosen the chains of social conformism a little, my satisfaction from expressing myself through clothes suddenly increased and at the same time I could get that vain buzz from being the most interestingly dressed person in most situations. The basics of this theory are not that you go out and buy a load more exciting clothes straight away but just that you start by wearing your dressing up clothes at the start of the day rather than for the evening. There are, however, some specific occasions that offer interesting contexts for dressing up a certain way.

I popped down to the recent anti-G20/anti-capitalist/anti-end-of-the-world protests in bank mainly to see if the protesters would also be anti-style and to see if I could distinguish those who had dressed specifically for protest from those who had come in their everyday gear...

I was really excited when I came across the guy with the black winged jacket. No doubt to some he just seemed like a scruffy guy in old clothes. But a glance down at his trousers completely gave his game away for me. Nobody who's care-free about their clothes goes to the extreme of pinning together ripped and antique patched jeans like this, not to mention teaming them with stripey leggings. His 80s vintage black leather jacket with pads and pleats at the shoulder is bang on trend and the faint black polish daubed on his face is enough to give the air of rebellious spirit while failing to serve any practical purpose of disguise. When I asked him if I could pap him for this blog he first grunted something which I figured was approval, then after a took a couple of shots he sullenly raised his two huge lapels. Unsure if he was doing this to show off his outfit or in a half-arsed attempt at disguise his identity I kept on shooting. The woolly wing-like lapels were so much cooler and avant garde than the standard hoody or balaclava/scarf of the militant protester.



I didn't have to wait long before I spotted another guy who'd dressed for the occasion. If the first guy was ironic for the effort he'd made despite his roughed-up style, the second guy's look was ironic for altogether more obvious political reasons. He's wearing a ripped up jacket which a few years ago would have been worn by someone guarding the royal family combined with his bicorn pirate hat and Vivienne Westwood Pirate boots. As he marched past me I got images of this wearer's past conquests during earlier battles against the machines of monarchy and government; his tattered jacket a battle trophy salvaged along the way from some fallen soldier of the state.



Catch me here soon:

http://bitchingandjunkfood.com/

On the slate...

Rough with the smooth



In earlier posts I've chatted about messing things up: wearing clashing colours and mixing looks in a way which would conventionally be considered bad taste. But something I always been more excited about personally is fucking with people's expectations around gender/sexuality and mixing up soft and hard elements in the same look.

The secret to our American Desi friend's hot look shown in these pics lies in the contrast of telling a story of two halves: up top sweet and innocent and below, a little bit rocker, a little bit saloon bar hussy. In the first pic the home-spun scene is set by the table cloth fabric and dainty cropped cardigan. The only nuance that things may not be quite as wholesome as they seem is the potentially innocent dropping of the cardy shoulder revealing flesh, and not one but two straps. A quick pan down gives us more context for that shoulder reveal and confirms that it wasn't such an innocent gesture after all. The lace underskirt is a perfect length to offer a fleeting glance from certain angles without being constantly on show and the rebellious feel of the boots is carried through to the other extremity with the arm of her cardigan messily covering half her hand. While the boots wouldn't be my first choice given free reign of the Selfridge's shoe department to choose a pair to go with this look, they're sufficient in exemplifying this contrast of rough with the smooth which makes this outfit such a success.

A less rustic take on the same look could take this in the direction of the geek-freak aesthetic made SO sexy by Thora Birch in the 2001 film version of Ghost World. For me there's no competition between this type of look and a straightforward conventional feminine aesthetic. After all, what could be as erotic as the taste of defiling the innocent, taming the rocker or igniting the undiscovered flame of the geek...

http://www.ghostworld-the-movie.com/macns/index.html



On the slate...



Sunday, 26 April 2009

MAW@ Alternative Fashion Week Day 5, Photo report

Catch my full report of the AFW action at Bitching and Junk Food soon:

http://bitchingandjunkfood.com/


Above and below: Ismail Erbil's avant-garde womenswear collection featured sinister hangman hoods and colourful chord and video tape draping over sexy toga dresses



Chelsea College of Art and Design students' clinical themed pieces. Below: Daniela Daminico shows the sculptural design she developed with Stephanie Deaves (R) and Valeria Olkhova's fungi-inspired outfit.




(Right) Model turned designer Sahhara stirred things up with her heavily accessorised lingerie line. And Gillian Ramsay's denim-heavy grandfather inspired collection offers up my favourite men's all-in-one I've seen this year.


Most interesting detail awards go to Grace Maran who used vertical drawstrings to give adaptability to a man's jacket and Louise Crockett for her use of childrens' toy images from laser-cut leather


I was down with Joanna Tulej's outfits which used clever cuts to lift architectural shapes off the body. Left: Clementine Baxter's original footwear worked well with Tulej's collection.

Catch my full report of the AFW action at Bitching and Junk food soon:

http://bitchingandjunkfood.com/